Galenics in cosmetics – what’s behind it?

Galenic… what? Galenics is the science concerned with the formulation and manufacture of medicinal and personal care products, and therefore plays an important role in our product development. Find out more about what exactly it involves and what the difference is, for example, between an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion and a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion.

Galenics – a science in itself

Galenics is the science of the formulation, mixing, and manufacture of medicinal and personal care products. A crucial component of cosmetic galenics are so-called emulsions, in which water and oil – two normally separate phases – are combined. The goal of product development is therefore to formulate and mix creams, lotions, and serums in such a way that they not only feel pleasant on the skin, but also optimally unfold their effect.

Depending on their composition, two types of emulsions are distinguished:

• Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W): light and moisturizing

In an oil-in-water emulsion, water is the main component, while small oil droplets are dispersed within it. This type of emulsion feels light, absorbs quickly, and leaves no greasy film. It is particularly well-suited for normal and rather oily skin, as it provides moisture without clogging pores.

• Water-in-oil emulsion (W/O): Rich and nourishing

In a water-in-oil emulsion, on the other hand, oil predominates, while water is enclosed in tiny droplets within it. This rich formulation intensively protects the skin barrier and prevents further moisture loss. It is thus ideal for dry and mature skin as well as for cold protection products, as it offers a long-lasting caring effect.

Why is Galenics important?

Galenics is so important because the differences in formulation ultimately determine the properties and uses of personal care products. The choice of the right emulsion therefore strongly depends on the needs of the skin and the desired application. It also plays a crucial role in the topical application of creams as part of neurodermatitis therapy. Depending on the skin condition and severity – whether the skin is in an acute flare-up or in a flare-free phase – the requirements for the composition of personal care products vary.

During a flare-up, the principle "moist on moist" applies. In this phase, you should primarily use products with oil-in-water emulsions, as they have a lower fat content but a higher water content. This emulsion provides pleasant cooling for inflamed skin and supplies it with sufficient moisture without greasing.

In flare-free phases, however, the focus is on a rich and intensively nourishing basic care that strengthens the skin barrier and protects against renewed dehydration. In this phase, you should therefore opt for water-in-oil emulsions, which have a higher fat content and thus offer longer-lasting re-fatting and protective effects.

Summary: Which care for which skin type?

Why is the med sun balm completely water-free and what are its advantages?

The big advantage of water-free products: unlike oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions, they do not require emulsifiers and are therefore less sensitive to temperature fluctuations and more stable in their consistency and effect. Without water, there is also no basis for the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria or fungi. This means that no or very few preservatives are needed, which often makes them better tolerated – especially for sensitive skin types. Water-free products, such as our med sun balm, are also generally much more concentrated, as dilution by water is eliminated, meaning you only need a smaller amount for the same skincare effect.